WPA2 vs WPA3
WPA2 has secured WiFi networks since 2004. WPA3, released in 2018, is the upgrade — stronger encryption, better protection against password guessing, and improved security on public networks. But here's the practical question: should you switch right now? The answer depends on your devices.
Quick Comparison
| WPA2-Personal | WPA3-Personal | |
|---|---|---|
| Released | 2004 | 2018 |
| Encryption | AES-CCMP (128-bit) | AES-CCMP (128-bit) with SAE handshake |
| Password attacks | Vulnerable to offline dictionary attacks | Protected — SAE makes offline attacks impossible |
| Forward secrecy | No — if your password is cracked, past traffic can be decrypted | Yes — each session uses a unique key |
| Device support | Everything — universal | Devices from ~2019+ (WiFi 6 and newer) |
| Setup | Any password works | Any password works (but short ones are better protected) |
The Biggest WPA2 Weakness
WPA2's main vulnerability is the 4-way handshake. When a device connects to a WPA2 network, there's an exchange of messages that an attacker can capture (just by being nearby with a WiFi adapter). They can then take that capture offline and run millions of password guesses per second against it. A short or common password (like "password123" or "homewifi") can be cracked in minutes.
WPA3 replaces this with SAE (Simultaneous Authentication of Equals). With SAE, each password guess requires an interactive exchange with the router — you can't capture and crack offline. An attacker would need to try each password one at a time against the live router, which makes brute-forcing impractical and allows routers to rate-limit attempts.
What Should You Use?
- WPA2/WPA3 Transition Mode — the best choice for most homes. Newer devices connect with WPA3, older devices fall back to WPA2. You get better security where possible without breaking compatibility
- WPA3 Only — if all your devices support it (check each one). Maximum security, but older smart home devices, printers, game consoles, and IoT gadgets may not connect
- WPA2-Personal (AES) — if your router doesn't support WPA3 at all. Still secure with a strong password (12+ characters)
How to Check and Switch
- Log into your router — find your IP, then check credentials
- Navigate to Wireless Security settings
- Look for the security mode dropdown — options vary by brand:
- NETGEAR: "Security Options" under Wireless
- ASUS: "Authentication Method" under Wireless → General
- TP-Link: "Security" under Wireless Settings
- Select WPA2/WPA3-Personal (mixed/transition mode) if available
- Save and reconnect all devices
WPA3 Compatibility Issues
If you switch to WPA3-only and some devices can't connect:
- Smart home devices (smart plugs, bulbs, cameras) — many still only support WPA2, especially 2.4 GHz-only devices
- Older laptops/phones — devices made before 2019 usually lack WPA3 support. Some received it through driver/OS updates
- Printers — most WiFi printers only support WPA2
- Game consoles — older Nintendo Switch, PS4, and Xbox One models use WPA2
The fix: use WPA2/WPA3 mixed mode, or create a separate WiFi network (many routers support a guest network) with WPA2 for legacy devices.
What About WEP and WPA?
| Standard | Status |
|---|---|
| WEP | Broken. Can be cracked in under a minute with free tools. If your router is set to WEP, change it immediately |
| WPA (original) | Weak. TKIP encryption has known vulnerabilities. Upgrade to WPA2 minimum |
| WPA2 (AES) | Good. Still secure with a strong password. Fine for most networks |
| WPA3 | Best. Modern security. Use when devices support it |
If your router only offers WEP or WPA (no WPA2 option), the router is extremely old and should be replaced — it likely has unpatched security vulnerabilities beyond just the WiFi encryption.
The Bottom Line
For most people: use WPA2/WPA3 mixed mode with a strong password (12+ characters). You get the best of both worlds — WPA3 security for newer devices, WPA2 compatibility for everything else. If you're still on WEP or open/no-security WiFi, drop everything and fix that right now.